Riccardo Tisci has Kanye and Kim, Hedi Slimane prefers musicians in mohair. What do designers' entourages say about them?
Success in fashion has always been about who you know. For a designer, the more glamorous and famous your friends are, the more fabulous you look. Get them to wear your clothes and you're truly golden – if you're associated with the A-list, regular people will queue up to buy your clothes. Take the partnerships between Valentino and Elizabeth Taylor or Hubert de Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn.
But such stylish pairings are no longer enough. Designers now follow the Yves Saint Laurent school of branding, and curate an entourage around themselves and their brand. Yves did it in the 70s, dressing friends such as Loulou de la Falaise and Betty Catroux in his designs, and heading to Le Sept. These days, the process is more carefully orchestrated, and essential to a brand's operation. Who knows if these collectives are real BFFs – does Alexa Chung go over to Henry Holland's to watch the Celebrity Big Brother final?Is Riccardo Tisci on Skype all evening with Kimye? Who cares? They look great. Here's our rundown of the designer gangs to know now.
**The glossy aristocracy**
*The designers* Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel.
*The gang* Vanessa Paradis, Lily Allen, Cara Delevingne, Amanda Harlech, Stella Tennant and Julia Roitfeld.
*The look *Lagerfeld is a master at walking the line between classic, established beauties and new talent. Somehow, it never looks contrived – possibly because they all have a signature Chanel look: willowy, with eyeliner and an enviable chain accessory.
*Potential future members* Lagerfeld has been cultivating Hudson Kroenig – the young son of model Brad – as a male muse since he was in nappies. The little boy recently walked the finale of Chanel's couture show. Julia Roitfeld's daughter Romy might be under two, but she's a safe bet, too.
*How to infiltrate* That might be tricky. Unless you have breeding that will gain entry into Debrett's or are the child of one of Lagerfeld's inner circle, jog on.
**The deshabillé girls**
*The designers* Nicolas Ghesquière and Louis Vuitton.
*The gang* Charlotte Gainsbourg, Marie-Amélie Sauvé, Vanessa Traina, Kristen Stewart and Jennifer Connelly.
*The look* The fashion world is still waiting for Ghesquière's Louis Vuitton debut in March, but his 15 years at Balenciaga give us an idea of who to expect in the front row. This is all about brunettes with glossy hair and preferably a scowl.
*Potential future members* Rebecca Hall is primed and ready to go for Ghesquière. She's clever, brunette and increasingly into fashion.
*How to infiltrate* Practise not smiling, rework your bedhead hair and buy Ghesquière-era Balenciaga on eBay.
**The bands**
*The designers* Hedi Slimane and Saint Laurent.
*The gang* Juliette Gréco, G-Dragon, Miles Kane, Sky Ferreira, Jake Bugg, Courtney Love.
*The look* Angular, in a band and wearing classic rock'n'roll pieces only, please. Slimane's vision for Saint Laurent is Instagram-friendly luxe grunge. Think (very) skinny jeans, Chelsea boots and striped mohair.
*Potential future members* You'll find these in the latest issue of NME. We'd say the Districts and Black Gold Buffalo – young, cool and rock'n'roll – have a good chance.
*How to infiltrate* Basically, if you're in a band and wear a lot of black, Slimane wants to hear from you.
**The rebel classics**
*The designers* Marc Jacobs.
*The gang* Katie Grand, Kate Moss, Kim Gordon, Sofia Coppola, Miley Cyrus and Jessica Stam.
*The look* Jacobs loves someone with a naughty smirk, and most of those who fill his phone book have the requisite qualities. Introducing Kate Moss at last year's British Fashion Awards, he called her a "perfectly imperfect girl". You get the picture.
*Potential future members* It can't be long before singer Ariana Grande ditches the squeaky-clean image.
*How to infiltrate* Jacobs is focusing on his own line, after balancing it with work at Louis Vuitton for 10 years. That means more time in New York. The HQ is in SoHo. Just saying.
**The dark glamours**
*The designers* Riccardo Tisci and Givenchy.
*The gang* Carine Roitfeld, Rihanna, Kanye West, Kim Kardashian, Marina Abramovic and Mariacarla Boscono.
*The look* Glamorous, a bit gothic, but with sportswear detailing. Tisci is a master at this odd but very modern combination. Kardashian's Met Ball dress – a floor-length floral number with gloves – is your reference point.
*Potential future members* North West. Tisci was one of a number of designers to send the alpha baby mini designer goods. He's the only one, though, to have been pictured holding her on Instagram.
*How to infiltrate* There are two strands to the Givenchy gang: hip-hop royalty or the arty side of fashion. So make friends with Kanye or get a job on a style magazine.
**The bright young Brit things**
*The designers* Henry Holland and House of Holland.
*The gang* Alexa Chung, Pixie Geldof, Daisy Lowe, Nick Grimshaw and Agyness Deyn.
*The look* These guys are all about fun – something that gels with Holland's catwalk look. Colours are bright, prints are daft and an inside joke is only a nudge away.
*Potential future members* Tiger Lily Hutchence, now 17, is probably in with her big sisters' mates, so it's only a matter of time. Harry Styles – who attended Chung's birthday party – is on the periphery.
*How to infiltrate* Going out on London's club scene is a start. Nick Grimshaw is reportedly moving to Hackney, so E8 is your port of call. Reported by guardian.co.uk 4 days ago.
Success in fashion has always been about who you know. For a designer, the more glamorous and famous your friends are, the more fabulous you look. Get them to wear your clothes and you're truly golden – if you're associated with the A-list, regular people will queue up to buy your clothes. Take the partnerships between Valentino and Elizabeth Taylor or Hubert de Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn.
But such stylish pairings are no longer enough. Designers now follow the Yves Saint Laurent school of branding, and curate an entourage around themselves and their brand. Yves did it in the 70s, dressing friends such as Loulou de la Falaise and Betty Catroux in his designs, and heading to Le Sept. These days, the process is more carefully orchestrated, and essential to a brand's operation. Who knows if these collectives are real BFFs – does Alexa Chung go over to Henry Holland's to watch the Celebrity Big Brother final?Is Riccardo Tisci on Skype all evening with Kimye? Who cares? They look great. Here's our rundown of the designer gangs to know now.
**The glossy aristocracy**
*The designers* Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel.
*The gang* Vanessa Paradis, Lily Allen, Cara Delevingne, Amanda Harlech, Stella Tennant and Julia Roitfeld.
*The look *Lagerfeld is a master at walking the line between classic, established beauties and new talent. Somehow, it never looks contrived – possibly because they all have a signature Chanel look: willowy, with eyeliner and an enviable chain accessory.
*Potential future members* Lagerfeld has been cultivating Hudson Kroenig – the young son of model Brad – as a male muse since he was in nappies. The little boy recently walked the finale of Chanel's couture show. Julia Roitfeld's daughter Romy might be under two, but she's a safe bet, too.
*How to infiltrate* That might be tricky. Unless you have breeding that will gain entry into Debrett's or are the child of one of Lagerfeld's inner circle, jog on.
**The deshabillé girls**
*The designers* Nicolas Ghesquière and Louis Vuitton.
*The gang* Charlotte Gainsbourg, Marie-Amélie Sauvé, Vanessa Traina, Kristen Stewart and Jennifer Connelly.
*The look* The fashion world is still waiting for Ghesquière's Louis Vuitton debut in March, but his 15 years at Balenciaga give us an idea of who to expect in the front row. This is all about brunettes with glossy hair and preferably a scowl.
*Potential future members* Rebecca Hall is primed and ready to go for Ghesquière. She's clever, brunette and increasingly into fashion.
*How to infiltrate* Practise not smiling, rework your bedhead hair and buy Ghesquière-era Balenciaga on eBay.
**The bands**
*The designers* Hedi Slimane and Saint Laurent.
*The gang* Juliette Gréco, G-Dragon, Miles Kane, Sky Ferreira, Jake Bugg, Courtney Love.
*The look* Angular, in a band and wearing classic rock'n'roll pieces only, please. Slimane's vision for Saint Laurent is Instagram-friendly luxe grunge. Think (very) skinny jeans, Chelsea boots and striped mohair.
*Potential future members* You'll find these in the latest issue of NME. We'd say the Districts and Black Gold Buffalo – young, cool and rock'n'roll – have a good chance.
*How to infiltrate* Basically, if you're in a band and wear a lot of black, Slimane wants to hear from you.
**The rebel classics**
*The designers* Marc Jacobs.
*The gang* Katie Grand, Kate Moss, Kim Gordon, Sofia Coppola, Miley Cyrus and Jessica Stam.
*The look* Jacobs loves someone with a naughty smirk, and most of those who fill his phone book have the requisite qualities. Introducing Kate Moss at last year's British Fashion Awards, he called her a "perfectly imperfect girl". You get the picture.
*Potential future members* It can't be long before singer Ariana Grande ditches the squeaky-clean image.
*How to infiltrate* Jacobs is focusing on his own line, after balancing it with work at Louis Vuitton for 10 years. That means more time in New York. The HQ is in SoHo. Just saying.
**The dark glamours**
*The designers* Riccardo Tisci and Givenchy.
*The gang* Carine Roitfeld, Rihanna, Kanye West, Kim Kardashian, Marina Abramovic and Mariacarla Boscono.
*The look* Glamorous, a bit gothic, but with sportswear detailing. Tisci is a master at this odd but very modern combination. Kardashian's Met Ball dress – a floor-length floral number with gloves – is your reference point.
*Potential future members* North West. Tisci was one of a number of designers to send the alpha baby mini designer goods. He's the only one, though, to have been pictured holding her on Instagram.
*How to infiltrate* There are two strands to the Givenchy gang: hip-hop royalty or the arty side of fashion. So make friends with Kanye or get a job on a style magazine.
**The bright young Brit things**
*The designers* Henry Holland and House of Holland.
*The gang* Alexa Chung, Pixie Geldof, Daisy Lowe, Nick Grimshaw and Agyness Deyn.
*The look* These guys are all about fun – something that gels with Holland's catwalk look. Colours are bright, prints are daft and an inside joke is only a nudge away.
*Potential future members* Tiger Lily Hutchence, now 17, is probably in with her big sisters' mates, so it's only a matter of time. Harry Styles – who attended Chung's birthday party – is on the periphery.
*How to infiltrate* Going out on London's club scene is a start. Nick Grimshaw is reportedly moving to Hackney, so E8 is your port of call. Reported by guardian.co.uk 4 days ago.